After a long stretch of bad or no internet connections a long update! :)
Photos will follow when the internet connection gets better! :) Have fun!
12.4.
... some more of this day ...
Well we had enough time to catch up with our diaries! :) We arrived at around 6pm and walked to the Anclas del Sur hostel where we had booked a room. The lady there was nice and talked only Spanish. The room was ok but the shower on the upper floor had almost no water and stopped completely when someone downstairs was using water. Still a shower was nice. Later we asked for tours to peninsula Valdes. Unfortunately quite expensive, transport plus entry 60 Euro per person for a day trip. Later we bought bus tickets on to Ushuaia via Rio Gallegos. 33h in total and it cost 180 Euro each! Well we wanted to ride the bus but this was already close to our limit to consider a flight for approximately the same price. We bought some Ravioli to prepare in the hostel and lunch for the next day. Dinner was good and we had some beer. We went to bed early.
13.4.
At 6:30 we got up to get ready for the tour and have some breakfast. At 7:30 we were ready to go but the our bus arrived at 8:25. We went together with 6 Swiss and a dutch lady. Our guide Mauritius was nice and spoke English well. He reminded me of our Simian mountain guide Ziggy. It was a 2h drive to Peninsula Valdes with short stops at the visitor center, ticket office and to take photos of llamas. At the first view point we got to see seals. Unfortunately quite distant. The next point was really cool. There were penguins. They were around 45cm tall and most just standing around, some right next to the fence of the view point. I liked it a lot. Next we went to see some Sea lions. They were also quite distant but at the next viewpoint there was the chance to see also some orcas (killer whales). We were lucky and there really came three orcas to hunt for baby sea lions. The spectacle was goin on for a long time, with sea lions going up and down the coast and the orcas showing up at different points until the suddenly had isolated one. They were playing around with their pray for a long time until they finally killed it. After that we went home, only with one window less. A stone broke one of the windows, although I have no idea how it happened, as no other vehicle was driving on the gravel road there. It was quite a procedure to get all the glass out of the frame. Finally, it was replaced by a cardboard. It was a great trip with really nice wildlife. In the evening we prepared lunch for our long journey the next day and had a big salad, some lomo steaks and wine.
14.4.
The wine was probably not so good as I woke up with a headache. We had a nice breakfast, as we had part of our lunch, eggs, salami and bread, already for breakfast. I was looking into buying a battery recharger as I did not bring mine and the batteries here are not only expensive, but also of very poor quality. Even when they are ultra long lasting photo batteries they only weigh half as much as a good one from home and last not even a third of the time. In the end I did not find one suitable for the trip, i.e. 220 and 110V. We got home fresh stuff from the bakery, packed our stuff and went to the bus terminal. The bus was supposed to leave at 10:40 but did not. Every time I asked they told me something like, in ten minutes. In the end we went shortly past noon and one hour later had to change the bus. Again it was a drive through the pampas. Just before sunset we hit the coast and went along some scenic bays. Really a nice reward for not taking the airplane. On the bus they also showed some nice movies. One about a surfer-girl who lost her arm in a shark attack but still managed to compete in surf contests after that, based on a true story. Later there was some trash movie but on the other hand the family with 5 small children right behind us left the bus. That was quite a relief shortly before the night started. We had a long break at around 11 pm and it was already quite cold outside. There was an amazing sky full of stars.
15.4.
At 6 am I woke up. It was still completely dark and son after that we arrived in Rio Gallegos. It was freezing cold outside. We bought some water and filled out forms for the border crossing into Chile. Unfortunately there is no direct link to Tierra del fuego on the Argentinian side, so we need to transit through Chile. At around 8:30 we left as planned and even on the bus with heating it was a bit cold. I still wore my sandals but had to put on socks then. Looking out the window I noticed that some bits of water next to the road was frozen. After one hour we reached the border control. Until there we ate up all our fruit and the last sandwich, as it is not allowed to bring this into Chile. We had to wait for more than 1h on the bus while the drivers where out there with our passports. When we thought we could move on we personally also had to queue again in the post. After that once more with our hand luggage to be checked by a dog. The dog was excited about our Mate-bowl on Radkas backpack and was licking it. But what entertained everyone was, that the dog was also sniffing for quite a while on my feet. I was happy I had the socks, so he licked them not me. In total we spent more than two hours there. Later we had to wait for the ferry which did not take so long. On the boat many people stayed in their vehicles and we went up on the deck to see whats happening. Soon we went down again because combined with the wind it was very cold. I told Radka that in Norway everyone would be on a passenger deck now and get hot dogs and beer. Radka was making fun of me and said: „Yes sure, have a look, behind that door they are already waiting for you with hotdogs. I had a look and in fact they were! :) The passenger deck was just very narrow but there was one and there was a lady selling hot dogs and coffee. So I had to get a hotdog and it was good! :) Eating my hotdog I was looking out the window, when we suddenly realized two dolphins swimming by the ferry. Unfortunately they left again before I could take a photo. On tierra del fuego the asphalt road soon changed into a bumpy dirt road. We went through hilly terrain with grassland and cattle, and small lakes – sometimes with flamingos. We re-entered Argentina at San Sebastian, which took only a few minutes. From there, the road was paved again, very nice! Soon we arrived in Rio Grande where most people got off the bus. We had to change to another bus, which took another 3h to Ushuaia. Outside it got dark and the really nice landscapes slowly faded. There were some really cool trees that seemed to be dead and dry with lichen on them. We arrived in Ushuaia 2h late and took a taxi to the Posta hostal. The hostel was very nice and we were the only guests. So our 4 bed dorm turned into a spacious private. We talked for a while with Flora,to a french girl working there and then went to buy something to eat. We had a soup,some bread,sausage and beer, and went to bed soon after.
16.4. - Ushuaia
For breakfast we got crackers to put on jam or dulce de leche, and coffee in bags like tea. We were happy we still had some bread from the day before. We walked into the city, which took a little longer than 20min and went along the harbor to take some photos. There was a seal playing around in the water and there was a ship which stranded there in 1957 which they now preserve. We went to the tourist info where we also asked about trips to Antarctica – just in case – but unfortunately the season is over and we would have to wait until November. And maybe work until then, because the cheapest options start at 4000 USD. We booked another boat trip instead at the Che-Tango office. A trip through the Beagle channel on a small boat. Before the trip we walked down San Martin, the main road through the town. It reminded me a lot of Tromsoe, with one outdoor shop after the other and also the architecture is quite similar, actually in the whole region. One of the shops made us laugh a lot. There was a „Plut-Tomato“ shop which was, including the logo and the whole style of the shop, almost an exact copy of Blue-Tomato. In another shop I finally got a battery charger, which should hopefully work for our trip. We went on to the office of the bus company that operates the route to Punta Arenas. We had to wait for a long time, but managed to get tickets for Wednesday. After that we went into a local fast food as we did not have much time and were quite hungry. We got a burger and a pizza menu which was both quite a lot. We rushed to the boat and started our trip. We had a funny guide and soon after we started we arrived at the first small island which was full of sea lions. We got really close to them, which was really cool! Some of them made a lot of noise which sounded like vomiting sheep. Else they were just lying around. Approaching the second island we also saw some more active seals. They were playing around in the waves of our boat, which was really cool. Our driver did a lot of turns to motivate them to play in the waves. We also met one of the big tour boats with many people on and were happy to be on the small one, where we could get much closer. Radka was very excited about the seals playing around, so was I and took a lot of photos. The next islands were full of cormorants and soon after we arrived at the lighthouse nicely located on a very small island. We had a coffee and cookies inside on the boat as it was quite wet and cold outside. Sun, clouds and rain changed rapidly and it was very windy, however, quite nice weather in general. The last station was an island where we went for a small so called „trek“ which was more a short walk. We went to a nice viewpoint and to an archeological site, which was actually just a ditch in the ground in which natives had lived. Back on the boat they took out a net from the water and actually caught a big red crab with a lot of stings. ON our way back we had some local Beagle beer (red) drought, really nice and much better than from the bottle, which they also had there after the barrel was finished. Later we wanted to take another Bagle beer in the city but decided not to as we found out that they sold half a liter for more than 5 Euro. We went to the supermarket to buy dinner, steak and salad. We walked home and as I wanted to fry the steak I found out that it was actually three slices instead of one big piece. I tried to do it as if it was one, but it did not work very well – still ok. We talked with Flora for a while who also told us about the amazing price increase in Argentina and that many of their guests want to leave Argentina as fast as possible. She also told us that we have to go to the „end of the road“ in the national park the next day and that the owner of the hostel plans to do the panamericana by motorcycle.
17.4. - Ushuaia
In the morning it was raining. We had breakfast and were picked up by a bus to bring us to the national park a short drive out of town. Quite expensive, again as was the entry fee, in total more than 30 Euros. On the other side the weather turned better and the sun came out. We were dropped off not where the trek starts but before (great service!) and we had to walk an additional 20 min along the road. Then a very nice trail along the coast started. Except for us we just met four others during the 3h walk. At one point Radka spotted a whale! That was a really cool event. We both had never seen one and although it was quite distant it was still great! Then we took another path to the end of the road. At that point the Ruta 3 ends and there is a sign saying 17848 km to Alaska. That's the place we and all the other panamericana adventurers have to take their start or end photo. While waiting for the bus back we talked to a funny English girl who had traveled for half a year through South America. Back in Ushuaia we bought some dinner again and this time took a taxi home. We had walked enough for today. Back in the hostel we got a room mate, Olga from Russia. She could have been a KGB agent. We also got news from Alberto, who we wanted to visit in Punta Arenas, that he had to leave the city for his job for one week, leaving just before we'll arrive. Bad luck again with our friends. We prepared lunch for our 12h bus trip and had some wine. I tried to integrate a Google map with the destinations of our trip into the blog but did not succeed and gave up after 2h. So, sorry, you still have to look up the places manually!
18.4. - Ushuaia – Punta Arenas
In the night there was a thunderstorm, so intense that I thought the roof might come off the house. Luckily nothing like that happened and we got up at 5:30 and had some breakfast. The ordered taxi was not there but we called another one and were still far too early there. SO we had to wait in the cold as all the other tourists who were told to come half an hour before departure. Before crossing into Chile we were eating a lot as we again did not remember that we are not allowed to bring most types of food into Chile. Finally we had to throw away a lemon and our boiled eggs were tested by the guard by crashing them against the table. We wanted to eat them soon anyways. When we arrived at the ferry we realized that we were going back the same way we came which is actually quite a detour but a much shorter ferry ride. This time there were also a lot of waves. Back in the bus we had some mate and arrived in Punta Arenas 2h earlier than expected. We went to the Backpackers Barefoot which Alberto had recommended and took a room. We walked around Punta Arenas and it was very cold. Everything was covered with a lot of mud, as the river flooded the city one month earlier. We had a coffee in a cafe on the main square to warm up a bit and then went down to the harbor We had dinner in a place recommended by the rough guide. It was quite expensive but good. I had lamb, Radka onion soup and we had a bottle of wine. Back in the hostel after ringing the bell a few times an old man opened the door but then disappeared again. There was no one at the reception, so we did not get the promised towels.
19.4. - Punta Arenas – Puerto Natales
In the morning we found out that there wasn't breakfast either and still no one at the reception. Outside it was still very cold, windy and between raining and snowing. We bought some breakfast and this time George, a Spanish guy opened the door for us. He was the only other guest except for us. He had spent already a week there and had a key to the front door. I wanted to buy a poncho for our planned trek and joined George to go to a shopping center, Zona Franca, where we went with an interesting version of public transport I have not seen by then. The collectivos there are usual taxis which have a number on the roof like a bus. So they actually work like buses that only take four passengers. It works well. George had to struggle to get his money back for an iPhone which was actually a stolen one. Meanwhile I got myself a poncho, gloves and some rechargeable batteries for my camera. Back in the hostel, finally there was the guy at the reception again and we paid the room – with discount because of the missing towels. :) We went to the bus company for the bus at 15h to Puerto Natales together with George who also wanted to go to Torres del Paine. They did not sell us a ticket inside but told us to pay on the bus. This was actually really stupid because we had been the only ones without seats and had to move all the time until everyone got ones assigned seat and we took the last ones free. It was a 3h ride and at the bus stop there, a woman, Melinda, offered us a cheap hostal for just 5000 Pesos (8 Euro) each. George started to ask her about the hostel and so we went there, actually in their car. The house was very run down and a complete chaos. We got beds in a four bed room together with George. We went to buy tickets for a bus to the national park Torres del Paine and went to the supermarket to stock up for our trip and dinner. Radka and I decided not to camp but use the refugios in the park as it was already very cold and renting equipment wasn't cheap either, still knowing that the refugios were awfully expensive. Back in the hostel we started to cook. The kitchen was an awful mess, very small and far from clean. We had to clean everything twice, before and after using it. Anyways we managed to prepare a nice pasta with vegetable sauce. We packed our stuff for the trekking and went to bed.
20.4. - Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine
For breakfast we had the rest of the pasta and some more of the supplied breakfast and were ready to go at 7:30. The bus picked us up at 8 and we started in the dawn through very nice landscapes. We had a stop, where the drivers took breakfast and continued to the park. A bit before the entrance we had a stop at a nice view point at a laguna. At the entrance we had to register and buy the ticket before continuing to the catamaran. We arrived there at 11 where we said good bye to George who started from a different point with his tent. At 12 we took the catamaran to cross a lake. On the other side we checked in at the refugio Paine Grande, left part of our stuff there and started walking towards glacier Gray. Just when we started we met Artyom who we had met on the bus to Puerto Madryn before. He was in a hurry to reach the next camp and excited about the park. We went up through burnt woods, as just last December another big fire burnt a huge part of the park. After an hour or so we arrived at the huge glacier lake with the huge glacier in the back. It was very nice. We walked on and wanted to make it to the start of the glacier. Unfortunately, the hike took longer than expected and Radka insisted on returning not to get into the dark. Unfortunately, it was really, as I expected, only a few minutes more to at least see the front of the glacier from up close. What can you do. We returned to the refugio in the dusk and had dinner there. The dinner was actually quite ok price and a big portion of a good pasta bolognese. The huge refugio was quite empty and only 6 people had diner in the mensa like dining room. It was very cold there, as the fire destroyed the heating system and the staff did not heat any of the ovens there, although there was wood besides. We talked to Carola and Steffi, two German girls for a while and soon wet to bed in our cold room. It had 13°C in our room and at 22h the electricity was shut off.
21.4. - Torres del Paine
We got up early and started walking in the dawn at 8:10 when it was still quite dark. We went 2h to the campamento Intaliano, where we left one backpack with the ranger „Salvaje“ Mauricio who also told us about the weather. We went up 1h to mirador, Valle de Frances and finally had breakfast there. A very nice spot! We enjoyed the view and watched ice calving down a steep wall over the rocks, which sometimes resulted in huge avalanches. Again we met Artyom who was just on his way down from another view point 2h further up. Radkas knee hurt and so we decided to take it easy and leave the view point. We continued slowly, back to the campamento to pick up our bag and on to refugio Cuernos. Again we had to cross many small rivers and had many muddy path. The refugio looked very nice and they had some fire lit there, so it was a bit more cozy than the other one. Though it was also quite expensive. A bed in the dorm (which was not heated and 12°C) and a dinner cost around 50 Euro per person. I asked them if paying by credit card was possible, and it was. If I had known about their unsecured data transmission I would have used my cash. In fact it was very unsecured, as they transmitted my cc data over the radio to another refugio. I hope no one listened to that and took notes. The shower was quite bad and it was a bit annoying that we were not allowed to wear our shoes inside, especially in the bathroom where everything was under water. Dinner was fun with an English guy, Michael?, who was a great entertainer and who looked a bit like one of the Monty Pythons. On the table were also a German-Spanish and an Israeli couple. We had Carneroles, Pancake filled with meat, really nice! :) In our room it was only German speaking people and there were also many Swiss camping. At 21:30 the light was off.
22.4. - Torres del Paine
We got up very relaxed at half past eight, as we did not have a lot to hike for this day. We had breakfast and started at half past nine. We walked slowly and saw some Condors. Very big birds indeed! :) After 6 hours including some relaxed breaks we arrived at the refugio Las Torres. Actually we first entered the hotel and were already wondering what a luxurious refugio it was. We had to walk on for 1 km to actually reach the refugio. It was the best of the three refugios which had even heating in the rooms. However, it was also even more expensive than the last one. We had some tea and played chess. It was a good game which ended draw. We started dinner a bit late because of the game and had chicken and rice. Carola and Steffi were also there and we spent the evening together with them and a bottle of wine. At 22h, the electricity was cut also there.
23.4. - Torres del Paine
The electricity did not come back at 7:30 as announced but at 8:30 for some reason. So we started quickly and were out walking at 8:45. After 45 min we had breakfast. I had a headache. We walked on and after a total of 3h walking reached the view point mirador Las Torres. The three torres were beautiful and there was no cloud in the sky. It was great. We spent 2h up there and enjoyed the scenery. We also talked to an English girl for a while. We started walking down and took a bit less than 3h. Really strange, as the walking times on the map of the national park often differ greatly from reality. This hike was listed as 4,5h one way others we could hardly make in the stated time. If we had known, we could have saved a day, but on the other hand it was nice to have so much time up there. Back in the refugio we took a shower and played chess again. Again it was a good game but finally Radka bet me. Dinner was quite different than the day before, as it was only a third of the people there. The food was great. A gulasch with a lot of beef and mashed potatoes. This night we took Coca Cola instead of the wine.
24.4. - Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales
We had breakfast inside the refugio and also took some coffee with us. We walked the 1,5h to the Laguna Armagas where the bus should leave at 14:30. We left one backpack there and had a fast 5,5km hike to the waterfalls Cascadas Rio Paine. The falls were nice and after a short break there we had to walk back fast again. We made it to the bus and all the time condors were flying above us. Really nice! There were also many Guanacos (a kind of lama) and some of them fighting each other. They were actually spitting each other in the face before attacking. Going back to Puerto Natales only took 1,5h and right were the bus stopped we met Melinda. She and her husband took us again with the car to the hostel, and on the way she bought the bus tickets to El Clafate for the next day. We were a bit suspicious because she did not want us to come with her to buy the tickets, but later confirmed with other travelers that the price was actually the one we had paid. We went into town and still the weather was brilliant. There was not much to see, an old locomotive on the main square being the main site. Still a nice town which has some strange dinosaur or something as a mascot. Down at the waterfront we had some of our coffee from the morning and relaxed a bit. We went shopping some lunch for the bus ride the next day and also had a look in some shops to buy batteries for the headlamp and buy new travel towels. The towels we bought before leaving Graz are really crap. They already have big holes and are now just a big ball of micro fibers. At least they still dry fast. We had a burger, with avocado, and pizza, as we did not want to cook again at Melindas „great“ kitchen. We booked a hostel and started to catch up with our blog.
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