Friday, May 11, 2012

8.5. - 10.5. - Salta - Tupiza

8.5. - Salta
We had a late breakfast and day to relax and organize things. We updated the blog, the photos and also checked how to enter the US. Apparently it should be possible overland without any problems. Then I went to the bus terminal to buy the tickets for the next day. One way I took a public bus which was so full that I didn't even manage to find out how to pay until I got off. Then we walked to the main square where Radka did not remember ever to have been there. Then we wanted to visit the Museo de Arqueologia de Alta Montana which displays mummies of children excavated at an altitude of  around 6700m. Radka did not have her student license and as the price difference was huge we decided to get it from the hostel. On the way I had a Super Puncho – a big hot dog with a lot of different toppings. Back at the museum it was a really nice exhibition, but unfortunately they only display one of the mummies at a time. After that we visited the nice cathedral and walked back to the hostel. We had a lot of fun talking to our hostel-woman and then went out to eat in a parillada place near by. We had parillada (mixed grill) and a bife de chrizzo from the grill and a wine. On the mixed grill were also a lot of different parts from the guts and the south American version of blood sausage. Back in the hostel we had beer, again no Salta beer, because the hostel only had Quilmes, before we went to bed.

9.5. - Salta – La Quiaca - Villazon - Tupiza
We had breakfast at 6:15 and took a bus at 7 to the border town La Quiaca. The bus stopped in every little town and took a long time, but we had nice placed on top in the front row. The scenery was spectacular and we enjoyed the ride, although we arrived one hour late after an 8h ride. We walked to the border which took about 10 min. but was quite exhausting in the thin air at around 3500m. At the border control we had to queue for 1,5h but managed to enter Bolivia without any problems. Waiting there we met Felix and Fabian two Germans who also want to continue northwards. However, some people heading the other direction told us that strikes were going on and that roads are blocked. They however managed to drive around through the desert. We went to withdraw some cash in advance at the bank, as there was no ATM. Then we went to the bus terminal and taxi drivers already approached us asking if we want to go to Tupiza. Well we wanted and we found out that there is no other way than to take a taxi for a quite high price fro Bolivian standards. So we shared one with Felix and Fabian. First we went to a place to get chicken, fries and rice to go, then to pick up another spare tire and finally started at half past 5. We went straight into the desert and the road seemed to be ok. Though, for eating chicken with rice and fries it was quite shaky. After half an hour we stopped and the driver checked again his tires before the road got really bad. The Landcruiser did well and soon the sun set. It was quite an adventure! We had to stop many times and the driver would look around in which direction we should continue, as there actually was no real road anymore. At some point we had to cross a village where the road was blocked. Many people from the village were sitting around a fire there. Our driver managed to negotiate and we finally were allowed to pass for some 30 Bolivianos. We got stuck sometimes in the sand and had to push the car and also had some rivers blocking our way and went back and forth different path for a long time. We talked to the driver in Spanish and called it the aventura loco. We encountered some more road blocks, some of which we could pass paying, some of them were definite. Among them the last to enter Tupiza. Actually, we were really not sure anymore if we would arrive but we finally did after 5h. However, we still had to walk for half an hour into town. Our driver walked with us until a hostel where we checked in. At the hostel we tried to organize a tour for the next day. Fabian was not so sure, because at first they did not know how to get back from Uyuni, but finally agreed to go. Finally we went to bed a bit past 1am.

10.5. - Tupiza
In the morning we took a simple breakfast but then found out that Fabian was quite sick because of the altitude and thus did not want to go on the tour. Another problem was the road block so it was not sure when the jeeps would be able to get out of town. Anyways we bought water, some fruit and coca leaves, which are said to be good to better take the high altitude, for the trip and also got some money from the ATM. Back in the hostel they tried to talk us into going together with Felix and Fabian the next day, although we wanted to leave this day. At the same time they were telling us that the road was still blocked and they were waiting for news for the blockade to open. Well, finally it was too late at around 11 to go anyways and so we had to stay. Later we found out that the other two jeeps actually went today, but what can you do. So we went to the marked and I bought a hat. We went together with Felix, Fabian and two Swiss, Dominik and Anita. At another market we had some delicious Tamales, corn mashed together with cheese, and a different type with meat. A guy sitting also there offered us some Chicha, the alcoholic drink made out of corn. Strange taste, but ok. Later in the hostel we found out that violent riots were taking place in many places of the country, but that the government is negotiating and that the situation will hopefully ease soon. So it's probably a good time to go in the desert for 4 days and in Uyuni we will see how the situation will be then. We spent some time on the roof terrace of the hostel writing the blog and Radka learning Spanish. Later the Swiss told us about a nice shop where we then bought alpaca pullovers and socks for the tour. After that the six of us went our for dinner in a recommended place. It was an authentic place and also lots of locals. The food was cheap but wasn't especially great. We went back to the hostel and were informed that we should be ready at 8 in the morning to either walk out of town past the blockade or to be picked up if the road is clear. We went to bed early.

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